Friday, 15 November 2013

Traditional Boat-making (An Art - in the verge of extinction)

Jamilabadh, a silent hamlet located close to Pulicat Lake was never really a village until the earlier 1980s. The village (which it is in recent years), is a pre-dominant Muslim community who descended from “Thonirev” - a small village near Andhra Pradesh during the land acquiring process for setting up Sathish Dhawan Space Centre @ Sriharikota island. These people were famous for building “Naatu-padagu” (traditional boats) from 15th century and they have also established strong trade connection with Arabs during those periods.

Art of Boat making
Traditional Boat making requires time anywhere between 25-45 days to complete a single boat depending on the no. of laborers involved. Fishermen have to shell out 1.2 – 1.5 lakh Rs. depending on the model, type of wood to be used. Though it cost around 30,000 – 50,000 Rs a decade back. Dwelling in a new region was never easy for these boat makers and they thrived hard to establish themselves through their business. Jamilabadh was popular for their reliable boats; villagers even claim to have made boats for customers from 
Orissa and Gujarat.

Their work system is solely based on craftsmanship with the use of wood, iron-nails, and resin extracted from the “Kongu” tree which they call as Kongu-paal. A fully completed boat is so reliable that it can carry over 3 tonne and with proper maintenance can last for 15-18 years. There is no machinery involved which makes it stand-out.

December 26’ 2004 – Tsunami struck along many coasts of Asia. Little did others know it had also struck the lives of nearly 300 villagers of Jamilabadh. FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic) boats were preferred by fishermen as they were cheaper and be ready instant as they were in extreme need of their livelihood.
It is evident through stats that boat making sunk in the last decade and there was no really a remedial measure taken to stabilize this traditional art.


Craftsman involved in making boat
Major reasons cited by the villagers for the decline of their business were low cost, durable and easy maneuvering capabilities of FRP are which cannot be matched by traditional boats. Once, a busy hamlet which produced 340 boats in a span of 5 years are making boats only once in a while, rest of the days pass in just repairing old boats as maintenance. Boat makers say that even this repair works will stop within 3-4 years at the most. 

When i was returning from the village something stuck me
Why didn't the foreign fund providers did not think about Traditional boats while distributing new FRP boats?
Why didn't the fishermen didn't think of their routes?
Why didn't the Boat-makers improve their standard to survive in the competition?
One freak like me who went to the village for a write-up couldn't answer these questions.

"I do not want my children to learn the art of boat-making" said Noorudin."My sons are pursuing Professional degrees and they don't know how to make traditional boats" proclaimed Shahul hameedh. They are not just those who hate boat-making in fact they were 3rd generation boat-makers. To say such things or even feel about their traditional art is heart-breaking but do make us realize that sometimes LIFE HAS TO MOVE ON even if it hurts you so deep.


Thursday, 5 September 2013

A day at pulicat - experience of my friend Umer khalifa in his own words

I went to pulicat to visit my friend vinodh who is staying at vairavan kuppam , pulicat . I started my journey to pulicat from central by train and reached ponneri . I took a direct bus to pulicat from ponneri , the bus journey was like wild safari because the bus driver drove the bus at top speed . Whenever the bus hit speed breaker it jumped up and down . After crossing the main city I saw marshy lands , agricultural lands , lot of beautiful water birds such as open billed stork , painted stork , paddy bird , egret , pelican which was a chill out for my city eyes which had seen crows and pigeons in every day life . After what i felt as an adventruous journey I reached pulicat bus terminal and moved on to vairavan kuppam by share auto.

It is a sea shore village where you always get welcome kisses from sea breeze and hear the fearsome sounds of waves reaching the shore. As soon as I entered the house my friend's father a fisher man of vairavankuppam asked me to join fishing . I was very excited about sailing into the deep sea and prepared my self for sailing .He took me in his non mechanized boat and a few metres into the sea the land disappeared and slowly I saw only majestic Bay of Bengal. The boat was jumping up and down due to wind action and harsh waves which gave me an un forgettable experience.

After reaching the target place he threw his fishing net and we got some bunch of fish . We returned to village by early afternoon , even after reaching land I felt like floating in water and felt as i triumphed . After a hour of rest , I went to fish market along with my friend vinodh which was a small stinging area . At one side, I heard screams of vendors selling fishes and other side I saw stocks arriving from the godown and also lot of fishes such as sardines , mackerel , cat fish, goat fish , sting rays , cuttle fish , squids , crabs ,shrimps , eels etc .I learnt local names of those fishes from the vendors as I am interested in learning the names . I spent rest of the day with my friend’s family and I started my return journey. I left the place unwillingly by saying good bye to my friend who came to bus terminal to send off me.

Monday, 5 August 2013

A day in Pulicat Lake

Pulicat Lake is the second largest brackish water lake in India. It flows through bordering the states of Tamilnadu and Andhrapradesh. Pulicat is described as one of the oldest ports of India, having found in the List of ancient ports from 1st century. Later, in the 13th Century came the Arabs, followed by Portuguese (the “Lady of Joys” church built by these mariners is in bad shape), and the Dutch.

So that is said about Pulicat. 
How will you find to spend the entire day?


A view at the lake from the bridge
My morning started with chirp sounds of birds. For those who are keen for bird- watching can find the early morning  the best because I spotted a wide range of Avifauna including Greater Flamingos, pelicans, kingfishers, herons, painted storks, spoonbills and ducks. It feels the best when you are watching the Sun rise especially, when you are standing on the bridge. Beneath, I found calm lake awaiting the return of boats from the sea. One has to feel the moment of golden rays of sun reflecting on the greenish lake. A walk down the bridge gulping down a bottle of water as passersby look at me, just before the end of the bridge turned right and entered the landing center. By now, it was about 6.15 AM faded effects of motor boats revving towards the landing center were heard and by every passing minute the rev became louder and louder as they broke the calmness of the place. In a glimpse, the entire landing center was bustling with activity, there were fishermen yelling  to their counterparts on properly transporting the catch from boat to the shed (where they land their fishes), some men spotted were wearing dhotis looked like wholesalers to me. I moved in closer to look at the catch, there were wide variety of fishes including Flatfishes, Anchovies, sea bass, tuna, mullets, any commercial fish you name them, they got it. If you are lucky enough and don’t mind bargaining with fisher folks you can fetch a kilo of crabs for just 130 Rs- fresh produce from mother nature. I was a wee bit tired and looked at my watch oh! It’s time for breakfast. Slowly drinking the left over water from my bottle I moved to a friend’s house to refuel myself.

Fishermen indulged in inland Fishing activities


My friend who is a native of the village advised me to take a boat ride into the lake. Following his words, I hired a boat and soon water was splashing on me I was travelling west gazing at the picturesque view of the lake probably 40 minutes have gone in jiffy I got down at Jamilabad – place where traditional boats are made the sound of hammer shaping the hull of the boats were pleasant to hear. I travelled further west into the lake to a place called Annamalicherry, it was a shallow region and I actually was allowed to get down from the boat and explore the surroundings. Water was so clear and I could actually look the mudflat ecosystem with juvenile shrimps, polychaetes, crabs, seaweeds. I got back into the boat not wanting to disturb the ecosystem further. I now traveled towards north from west part of the lake again those splashing water droplets, the boatmen stopped and asked me to have a look at the Buckingham canal he moved in a little closer to the canal and I could see Green Mussels attached to the walls at the entrance of the canal. After that, it was a long ride towards north and finally, I was having some companions – fellow fisher boats came to my view and at once I knew the boat was nearing the mouth of the lake. The boat had been stopped in a highland oh! Mother of nature has so many gifts for us to witness and experience in this world, the view at mouth of the Pulicat Lake is the beautiful sight one can imagine ever the great mighty ocean silence herself and enters the lake with astounding calmness. The mighty ocean finally finds her a place to relax, flowing into the lake with great silence but with the same majesty.
After an hour of splashing ride back, I got down at the landing center where boats were still making their way into from the sea with their catch. My mind was still on the highland near the mouth taking a 360-degree view of the region which I witnessed an hour back. I walked further and on the bridge I kept walking, I was back into realm of world when I reached the fish market.

I thank Mr. Vinodh for letting me experience it.